Why setup matters more than buying new gear
In spearfishing, small equipment choices have a big impact on accuracy, range, and fish landing success. Many divers assume missed shots are a skill problem, when the real issue is mismatched bands, an overpowered gun, a dull tip, or a float line setup that doesn’t fit the conditions.
This St. George Spearfishing Club Guidehouse article breaks down the essentials: how bands, shafts, shooting line, and float systems work together. Use it as a tuning guide before you spend money on upgrades.
1) Matching gun length to conditions
Even before bands and shafts, your platform matters. Shorter guns are easier in tight structure and low visibility. Longer guns offer more range in clearer water.
If you frequently dive reef, kelp, and rocky edges, you generally benefit from maneuverability and fast tracking. If you often hunt open-water species or clear-water reefs, a longer barrel can help. The “best” length is the one you can aim smoothly, not the one with the biggest numbers.
2) Bands: power, recoil, and consistency
Bands are the engine. More power isn’t automatically better.
Key considerations:
- Band diameter: thicker bands deliver more power but can increase recoil and reduce accuracy if overdone.
- Band length and stretch ratio: a properly sized band loads consistently and shoots predictably. Bands that are too short can be hard to load and may cause shaft whip.
- Number of bands: multiple bands can provide smooth power if balanced, but mismatched bands create uneven loading and inconsistent shots.
A practical rule: tune for accuracy first. If your shaft is hitting high or low, or grouping poorly, reducing power or changing shaft/band pairing often fixes it faster than “trying harder.”
Band maintenance is safety. Replace bands when you see cracks, fading, sticky texture, or wishbone wear. A snapped band can cause injury and ruins a day of diving.
3) Shafts: diameter, length, and tip choices
Your shaft must match your gun’s power and your target environment.
Diameter: thinner shafts fly faster and are flatter shooting, but they can bend more easily in rocks and big fish. Thicker shafts handle more power and hit harder, but they can be slower and require more band energy.
Length: too long and you risk poor tracking and line management; too short and you lose reach and may not engage the mechanism properly.
Tips:
- Flopper (single barb): simple and effective for many reef fish. Keep the flopper sharp and opening freely.
- Slip tip: useful for larger, stronger fish where tear-outs are more likely. It can reduce leverage on the shaft during the fight.
If you hunt near rocks, a robust tip and a shaft that can take a knock may save you money long-term.
4) Shooting line: the overlooked accuracy component
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3) Shafts: diameter, length, and tip choices
Your shaft must match your gun’s power and your target environment.
Shooting line affects how cleanly the shaft leaves the gun and how much drag it experiences.
Common options include monofilament and coated cable. Monofilament is popular for its low drag and clean release. Cable is tougher around sharp structure but can kink and add drag.
Whatever you use, keep it tidy:
- Check for nicks, abrasions, and tight bends.
- Use quality crimps and confirm they’re properly set.
- Make sure the line route doesn’t snag on sharp edges or add unnecessary friction.
If your shot feels “mushy” or your shaft occasionally veers, inspect line routing and tension before changing bands.
5) Reel vs float line: choosing the right system
Both systems can work well, but they solve different problems.
A reel keeps you compact in kelp and structure, and it’s convenient for shore dives. However, it requires excellent line management. Reels can also create risk if line tangles around you during a fight or in surge.
A float line provides visibility and a direct connection to a float, which helps with boat awareness and can add fighting power through drag. It’s often the more forgiving system for newer divers because it’s simple and keeps gear away from your body.
Many St. George divers choose float lines when boat traffic is a concern or when they want a clear “home base” on the surface. Reels can shine in thick kelp or tight reef zones where a float line constantly catches.
6) Float selection and rigging basics
If you use a float system, make it robust and visible. Your float should:
- Be bright and easy for boats to see.
- Provide enough buoyancy to mark your position and support gear.
- Use strong attachment points and corrosion-resistant hardware.
Rigging should include quality swivels to reduce line twist. If you add a bungee/floatline shock absorber, confirm it doesn’t create sloppy slack that tangles in kelp.
7) Common setup problems and quick fixes
Problem: Gun kicks hard and shots scatter. Fix: reduce band power, check band symmetry, consider a slightly heavier shaft.
Problem: Shaft hits low. Fix: check band strength and shaft/track fit; inspect for bent shaft; confirm shooting line isn’t dragging.
Problem: Fish tear off. Fix: sharpen the tip, ensure the flopper opens fully, consider a slip tip for larger fish, and work on shot placement.
Problem: Constant tangles. Fix: shorten or stiffen float line, improve line routing, add swivels, and practice line handling before you’re in surf.
Build a setup you can trust
A reliable speargun setup feels predictable: it loads consistently, shoots where you aim, and lands fish without constant drama. Start with safety and simplicity, then tune one variable at a time—bands, shaft, line—so you know what actually improves performance. With a dialed setup, your time in St. George waters becomes less about fighting gear and more about making good dives and clean shots.